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 Cafes and restaurant

Cafes and restaurant
Cafe Naderi
Underneath the Hotel Naderi, a favourite place for intellectuals and artists –design goes to circa 1950s Paris (unrenovated).

HajkhalimChaykhaneh
Thisplace offers a cheap, thoroughly ‘real’ local teahouse experience.

Azadegan Teahouse in Isfahan
In a lane off the northeastern corner of Naqsh-e JahanSq, this popular place sports an astonishing collection of teas hanging from its walls and ceiling.

Cafes and restaurant BAGHLAVA SWEET
Café Viona,
It’s a chain in Tehran at different places, looks more like the European style cafes.

Iranian Traditional Restaurant
This underground place is modern Iranian social interaction in microcosm, full of young Iranians drinking tea, smoking and eating under attractive tiled ceilings. The dizi and kababs are very good and well-priced for this location.

Qeysarieh Tea Shop
Sitting at the outdoor tables, sipping tea (IR5000 per person) and puffing qalyan (IR10,000), is the perfect way to soak up this beautiful ‘half of the world’, especially when the colours and moods of the square change in the late afternoon. And despite its position, the Qeysarieh Tea Shop is often pretty quiet.

Cafe Gallery
Located above beautiful Iranshahr Theatre in the middle of the Artists’ Park, Cafe Gallery is hard to beat in Tehran as a place to sit and soak up the scene. You can soak up some art (it’s a functioning gallery) and some sun, too, if you get a seat on the balcony. The cafe fare includes pastas, salads, burgers and toasted sandwiches that satisfy without stunning.

TeatreShahr
The huge, circular TezatreShahr, opened in 1968, is Tehran’s biggest and most impressive theatre and the place you’re most likely to see Iranian stage actors at work – performing in Farsi, of course. Some booking staff speak English so call to find out what’s coming up. Performances are normally at 6.30pm or 7.30pm.

Chai Bar
Occupying the garden and library pavilion of a 100-year old mansion in posh northern Tehran, Chai Bar blends traditional Iranian style with a superb garden location (heated in winter). It’s ideal for summer afternoons and evenings beneath the trees sipping the wide range of teas and Illy coffee; it also sells salads, soup and sandwiches.

Gol-e Rezaieh
At more than 75 years old, the very compact is one of Tehran’s oldest cafes and, until the revolution, was a favorite of intellectuals, journalists, writers and artists, some of whom still hang out here. It’s a good place for coffee after the nearby museums, and is known for its hard-to-find ‘home-made’ stew(khoresht)

Gandhi Shopping Centre
It’s a fun place to hang out in the afternoon and evening; just choose a cafe you like.

Azadi Sports Stadium
Iran’s favourite sport is football (soccer), which is played at several smaller stadiums and the giant-sized, 100,000-capacity Azadi Sports Stadium . Matches are normally played on Thursday and Friday but to find out where, your best bet is to ask a man working in your hotel.

Hammam-e Khan
Down a few stairs from the bazaar’s Copper Line (look for the sign), this old bathhouse now operates as a teahouse and is popular with young Kashanis. Go in the early evening for a tea and qalyan. A few doors down is NabatrieGhanadilpati, one of the town’s best patisseries.

Azari Traditional Teahouse
About  north of the train station, which is on Rah-AhanSq, and on the west side of Valiasr, this coffeehouse’ in south Tehran is wonderfully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unofficial community centre. The dizi  and kashk-e bademjan which is an eggplant fried and mashed and served with thick whey and mint;

Shater Abbas 1
The open kitchen and hard-working waiters add to the popularity of this long-standing returants. Enter from the street, descend the stairs into the basement.

Abbasi Hotel Teahouse
The setting at the rear of the hotel’s courtyard is a delight, and while you might need to start singing to get a waiter’s attention after 6pm, when locals flock here to eat ash-e reshte (noodle soup with beans and vegetables, its well worth the effort.

SofrakhaneSonatiEbrahimabad
This hidden, fabulously renovated 640-year-old former shower salon atmosphere with three domed chambers each more magnificent than the last. Local specialitypichagqeimeh (tender lamb, diced almonds, caramelised onions and soft-boiled egg stranded with saffron) is cooked with finesse and packed with flavour.

Delta SofrakhaneSonati
This delightful neotraditional retreat lies beneath the unremarkable Delta restaurant using separate stairs from outside. Tea comes in ceramic Lalejin pots, women can smoke qalyan on carpeted bed-seats without undue attention and the chicken ‘biriyani’ comes on a flaming plate.

Seray-e Mehr Teahouse & Restaurant
This is a serendipitous place to find after wandering through the Bazar-e Vakil. Hidden away through a small door behind the Saray-e Moshir Bazar, the split-level teahouse has a small menu of tasty favourites (think dizi, kubideh, zereshkpolo ) and a delightfully relaxed atmosphere in which to sit, eat and sip tea.

ChelokababiTavakol
This would be the backpacker meeting place, if there were any backpackers. Excellent-value Iranian food is served in an atmospheric once-grand old hammam that’s slightly gone-to-seed. Charming owner Ali Rahban looks somewhat like Dudley Moore, speaks good English and can rustle up eggplant delights for vegetarians.

Baliq
Fish,. Fresh whole fish, fish kababs, fish köfte balls, fishing nets on the ceiling, little aquariums between the tables and even fish-shaped  pens. Standards are excellent; the enticing decor includes a cave-wall trickling with water.

SofrakhaneSonatiDarvish
the Darvish is by far Gorgan’s most intriguing restaurant. Menus are limited but the kababs are really good. Around 9pm most evenings there’s live traditional Persian music from owner-manager Ahmad Morshe, who speaks fluent Romanian plus a little English.

Fereni Hafez
You’ll be in good company if you make it for an afternoon or after-dinner snack to this place to get their regular fixes of fereni, with many taking containers of the sweet stuff home to make the family happy. One mouthful and you’ll immediately realize why. Look for the ‘Ice cream Hafez’ sign and the people eating on the street.

Monsoon
Thai style Monsoon still has agood reputation for the city’s best modern Asian food. The fare ranges from Thai curries to Chinese noodle dishes, though the foods are not so hot.